Panda Pies and Long Neck Paduangs in Chiang Mai
From Pattaya to Bangkok, we finally made it to Chiang Mai! We checked in to the hotel and spent the next few days traveling around the city. The first day, as I had anticipated, was spent shopping for the various items Mrs. Boss had forgotten. Additionally a couple of pairs of shoes were purchased for James who had left home and traveled the entire journey without any footwear. Such was the length of his trousers neither Mrs. Boss nor I had seen his feet, and thus we were blissfully unaware of his barefooted-ness. Following the day at the shops we visited Chiang Mai Zoo, went on the Night Safari, had a day trip into the mountains, ventured to the Wat Phra Thart Doi Suthep temple and took in a hill tribe village excursion. We also allowed the boys to spend some time go-karting and horse riding — both of which they found highly entertaining. All of the attractions were worthy of a visit although it is unlikely I will be counting the days until I return to any of them.
The Zoo was passable but the experience was made a success due solely to the Panda enclosure. One of these adorable beasts was fast asleep for the entire hour we were watching, whilst the other was on the go constantly. Having completed our tour of the zoo we decided to take our evening meal at the restaurant just outside the main entrance. Here I noticed several dishes not normally witnessed on a Thai restaurant menu all featuring Kangaroo or Crocodile meat. There were several Kangaroos and Crocodiles present at the zoo and I presumed that the fare at the restaurant was part of a bit of business on the side between the two operations. Perhaps on my next visit they will be offering Panda Pie, although if they do I have absolutely no doubt that it will taste the same as chicken!
The Night Safari scores many points if you are one of those people interested in peering through the dark at seventy different species of antelopes and other herbivores — by the way I am not one of those people. However, the highlight for me was in seeing a pair of white tigers for the first time, and I considered that alone to be worthy of the entrance fee. The entrance fee was also something of a first for me. The usual practice here of imposing higher prices for Farangs than for Thais was in evidence, as expected. However, the indomitable Mrs. Boss is no different on holiday than she is when in work mode. She explained to the assistant that I live in Thailand and therefore should be charged the same as Thai people were. Without so much as a murmur the price for my admission was immediately reduced to the same level as being charged to Mrs. Boss.
 
Our trip to see the “long neck” Paduang people, who are one of the four groups of the Karen hill tribes, was another zoo style experience in my opinion — simply substituting human beings for wild animals. This “attraction” is in an area specifically created for tourists. A few people from a selection of hill tribes have been moved here and are on display for visitors to stare at and photograph. They are working paddy fields and the residents grow some crops, but most of the income is generated through the entrance fee. This fee was yet another first as the price here was the same for Farangs and Thais with no discounted rates for children. Mrs. Boss once more took exception to charges and this time threatened to leave before a new “two children for the price of one” system was summarily introduced.
I must admit to feeling rather uncomfortable wandering along the pathways staring at these people and especially the long neck women with the bronze rings around their necks. It somehow did not seem right to create an artificial environment for people to live simply for the benefit of tourists. The uneasy experience was made worse when I discovered that most of these tribesmen were not actually granted Thai citizenship and that they receive only a fraction of the income generated.
As for the actual term “long-necks” I have discovered that this is somewhat misleading. The bronze rings have the effect of squashing the vertebrae and collar bones rather than actually stretching the neck. These rings can also be found on the girl’s arms and legs and they commence the practice from around the age of six, adding to the number of rings every year thereafter. Another interesting fact I uncovered regarding these people is that adultery is punishable by death — Mrs. Boss wanted to sign us up there and then for membership!
